Let’s begin with the cheese. I did not make the cheese, even though it’s been a life long ambition of mine. OK, I have dabbled a bit with making butter and making soft fresh curd cheese, but I have never got as far as making a rind- washed or hard cheese. One day perhaps I will when I am old and grey (ha, the joke is on me as I am already grey, but there is still enough life in my old bones to give cheese-making a good go at some point!).

That was short and sweet about the cheese, but actually I should give credit to two of the best Suffolk cheese makers I know. I adore Shipcord cheese made by the folk at Rodwell Farm Dairy, Baylham, Suffolk; the cheese is an alpine-style cheese and if you’re lucky enough to get an extra mature piece, then you can taste the salt crystal formations in tiny little pockets captured in the cheese. Delicious! You can tell I have tasted enough of this cheese to know its exact characteristics.

The other one is Baron Bigod cheese, a soft rind-washed cheese from Fen Farm Dairy near Bungay, Suffolk; I am truly excited about this cheese. It’s got a really unique taste and a wonderful texture and is amazingly rich and creamy. I like to leave this cheese at room temperature for at least an hour before serving, so the rich interior of the cheese starts to soften. The contrasting taste of the rind and the creamy centre is very unique – the perfect match for my whole wheat crackers!

Last year, Adrian Eatwell, our good friend and neighbour, brought us some fabulous seasonal treats, medlars. On receiving them they were hard and had to be bletted; bletting the medlars is when you leave them to ripen in a cool, dark place (such as a shed) for about a month, until they become very ripe, and almost squidgy jelly-like – you might think they have gone rotten, but they haven’t (although do turn them every so often as you do not want them to go mouldy, they just need to soften and ripen). It’s a long process, but if you can control your patience, it’s a very rewarding one indeed. I am well pleased with this year’s batch of medlar jelly, although sadly I ran out of jars and could only jar half of the batch. However, the rest is used on the cheese board and served with last Sunday’s roast pork, so it is enjoyed by some very lucky diners indeed.

The wheat crackers are simplicity in their own right, but I find that these crackers work best with the types of cheese we serve. I use half whole wheat flour and half white flour for this recipe; the whole wheat gives the crackers a nutty taste. They last for a long time if you keep them in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard. I usually make a double batch of the crackers, as they are not only tasty with cheese but are great to serve with pâtés and rillettes.

I had been harping on for weeks before that I would like to have a go at making salami and cured meats. Well, one thing led to another, and Richard brought this book for me to read, pointing out that he had spotted bresaola in the book and did I fancy giving it a go. Before reading the recipes, I ordered the meat and then after reading both bresaola recipes, I realised that I did not have the cure #2 to hand and had to resort to the wet cure recipe.

It was delicious and I was very happy with the recipe, but the nagging thing in my mind was that I should try the dry cure version too. My results for the first recipe were great, actually both recipes were superb, but from a flavour point of view I prefer the wet cure, and from an aesthetic colour point of view I prefer the dry cure. So, I made up my own version very much based on Diana’s dry cure with the addition of a few extra spices and the orange – I thoroughly enjoyed the taste of the orange in the wet cure and for that reason I then incorporated it into the dry cure recipe.

The ideal temperature to hang the bresaola is at between 10–15°C (with relative humidity at 70–80% – see Cook’s Notes); at this temperature they should be hung for 3 weeks. A cool, dark, well-ventilated shed or room is ideal, but I don’t trust any of my sheds, and the outside temperature fluctuates so much that I decided to use a normal domestic fridge at around 5°C; it’s a bit cooler than the desired temperature and for that reason I hang the bresaola for a week longer (4 weeks in total). I have also left the spices quite rough and big, which not only looks great but also creates an interesting eat. That true home-made experience.

The salt-baked parsnips are simply wonderful. I have had plenty of salt-baked celeriac at various restaurants in the past and this triggered and inspired me to try parsnips. These are a triumph in their own right – they have the perfect texture and unique earthy taste to complement the bresaola.

This is the kind of recipe you should plan to make when you have a weekend of guests, such as family and friends, coming to stay. Plonk the ‘meat’ in the middle of the table with a carving knife and fork and plenty of freshly baked soda bread and home-made butter, plus a bowlful of warm salt-baked parsnips and parsnip remoulade – OK, so it’s a bit extravagant, but it’s heaven! Do not forget the Gewürztraminer or Barolo, whichever takes your fancy – both if it’s me. I think Diana Henry would approve of this kind of fare too.

This quick smoked method is one I used in my cookbook in a few recipes; it’s very effective and delicious, and it does not break the bank as you don’t need any specialist equipment. I would recommend though that you vent the kitchen well when using this quick smoke technique, as it can get quite smoky.

Fresh sea trout is almost like salmon and if you cannot find any, simply replace it with fresh salmon. The crispy air-dried ham brings a salty taste and crispy texture to the dish that works beautifully with the slightly sharp leeks in vinaigrette and the mild but aromatic horseradish cream.

It’s almost a whole meal in itself and is ideal for a light main course or lunch.

Talking about books, I have bought quite a few books on curing over the past month or so and I can honestly say that not one includes all the information you need. It’s such a specialist subject and I am curious as to why no one has written a technical step-by-step book on making salami and curing meat. It’s been driving me crazy. I would like one book to tell me all the do’s and don’ts, all the pitfalls, and to give me accurate information on preservatives, how to dry the meat and how to hang the meat. I do not need books telling me how to use ham or salami or how to make croque monsieur – arrggh! It’s clearly bugging me and I almost feel more confused now than before I started my mission.

From the information that I can gather the basic and simple principles are that you have to:

• work in a clean environment using clean utensils and equipment; hygiene is very important
• use the best and freshest ingredients you can find
• follow the process step-by-step
• use your nose; if it smells off or at all dodgy, chuck it out!
• read up as much as you possibly can about the process
• note everything you do word for word; it’s always good to keep a record for future reference

People ask me if I have tried to make chorizo, but no, this is not chorizo. I use spices I enjoy and like, so OK it might have a bit of a kick due to a bit of cayenne pepper, but it’s all pure and authentically made in Suffolk with my own fair hands, using my own ratio of spices, and using the best Suffolk-reared pig I can find, and most importantly, I have cut every piece of meat by hand. My point of view is that if you want maximum pleasure out of something, then you have to put in some real effort.

Making these salamis and a few other cured meats, such as bresaola, pancetta and koppa, I experienced the most amazing foodie buzz. It gave me a wonderful feeling of excitement and great achievement, and it was a very proud moment once they were all made and ready to hang.

If I was not a chef by trade and needed a hobby, I think this would be it – making salami. OK, decision made, it’s now my hobby, so how lucky am I, not only is it my hobby but it’s also my job! Simply brilliant!

This dish is perfect for sharing, a family-style supper for two, providing more than generous servings if the pork tenderloin is on the small side, but if it is on the larger side, then this is perfect for a family of four (two adults and two children).

I would like to mention here that cooking pork tenderloin perfectly is more difficult than cooking fish to perfection. Pork tenderloin is, to my mind, very underused and I think it’s perhaps because it’s very lean, with no fat at all, and if it’s overcooked it will be tasteless and very dry. For that reason, I cook my pork tenderloin medium to medium-well done. Pink is perhaps pushing it too far, but at the other end of the spectrum, well done is not good for the reasons given above. Cooking the pork in butter helps to keep it moist, and once the butter turns nutty brown (burnoisette), it adds plenty of wonderful flavours to the pork. If you are cooking your pork medium/medium-well done, then make sure you rest it well. You do not want pink juices on your plate.

This version of choucroute garnie might provoke a bit of controversy, as the true meaning of choucroute is fermented sauerkraut cooked according to the people of Alsace with pieces of sausage and bacon. My version is perhaps the cheat’s way and is slightly ponced up, but then I suppose it’s my prerogative to simplify it and adjust the method and recipe to suit my lifestyle and cooking.

Here at the British Larder we make our own sauerkraut by fermenting the cabbage for a month before use, it’s work in progress and we continue making batches of sauerkraut as the winter progresses. Over the festive period we where serving it with roasted duck breast to be precise, and it’s absolutely delicious.

Pork tenderloin is not only shredded and used in stir-fries, no, it’s absolutely ideal and perfect when cooked whole like this and enjoyed by all. This delicious recipe is something special, so do give it a try.

But, enough of smoked venison Scotch eggs, our vegetarian diners have voiced their desire and need for a Scotch egg of their own, and for that reason our version of a Puy lentil Scotch egg is now regularly made by request.

They are very tasty, but when making them, take extra time and care as the mixture is a little bit soft, so make sure you chill the mixture according to the recipe, otherwise it might all end in tears.

If you fancy a fishy version of a Scotch egg instead, do refer to my cookbook (The British Larder A Cookbook for All Seasons) on page 163, for delicious Smoked Salmon Scotch Eggs, or page 148 for the fantastic and fun Crispy Quack Eggs (duck meat wrapped around quail’s eggs). Such fun!

The game season is in full swing and hopefully everyone has enjoyed a pheasant or two so far this season. They are easy to come by and if like me you prefer to cook the breast and legs separately, then this recipe is an ideal one to use up the pheasant legs that have accumulated during the season.

You will be pleasantly surprised how much meat is on a pheasant’s leg, quite a lot once it’s cooked well and you flake the meat from the bone. The leg meat can be quite dry and mixing it with the drunken prunes and sausagemeat, turns it into delicious succulent little snacks.

The reason I call these ‘pheasants on horseback’ is because ‘devils on horseback’ are prunes soaked in either brandy or Armagnac, then wrapped in bacon. In this case, I have gone a step further and combined the drunken prunes with the cooked pheasant meat, and there you have it, ta da!

All those years of being in the company of my mother’s boring pre-Christmas dinner parties has finally paid off, as the inspiration for these came from one of those tedious chores of sitting by the kitchen table wrapping prunes in bacon.

They say that retro classics are back, in this case with a breath of new life.

I also have a special place in my tummy for mince pies, so in this case the two go perfectly hand in hand. We have over 80 people booked in on Christmas day and I volunteered this year to make the mince pies and fudge for afters.

The mincemeat was made months ago and to be honest I have two very specials jars left from last season’s blend, which I will keep for those really special moments. I cannot wait to open the jars and have a secret taste, as I know it’s going to be super delicious and extra matured.

For these little fudge drops, I used a small half moon-shaped flexible rubber mould, you can buy it from the infusions4chefs website, they are pretty good and will deliver quickly. It’s inexpensive and you can use it for plenty of other great ideas afterwards. https://www.infusions4chefs.co.uk/shop/apparatus/silicon-mould-hemisphere-mini-x-24s.html.

If you do not want to buy these moulds, then I suggest you shape the fudge into long thin logs, wrap in clingfilm and chill until set, then cut into bite-size mini logs and roll them in cocoa powder – they’ll be just as good.

You can make these drops up to 2 weeks in advance and keep them chilled in the fridge until needed. They make a delicious after dinner treat or they can be served instead of mince pies. They also make the perfect Christmas gift – simply pile a few into cellophane bags, tie with pretty ribbon or raffia and give as homemade gifts over the festive season. Enjoy! I did.

This recipe is a version of the recipe on page 422 of the cookbook – if you fancy making the delicious prune sauce, then you’ll need to refer to the book. The recipe in the book also gives you instructions on how to do this recipe with a whole turkey breast, preparing it as per a family-style roast that you can carve at the table.

These individual stuffed escalopes are great if you would like to serve turkey in a slightly more ‘upmarket’ way, for a special occasion meal or celebration. They can also be prepared a couple of days in advance and kept refrigerated until needed.

Remember to buy the best turkey you can afford, I prefer Suffolk free-range bronze turkey for its superb taste.

It’s become the ‘new’ toy for chefs because it’s fast and efficient, and under pressure the flavour and moisture are kept intact. I must agree it’s done a pretty good job of these pheasant legs and as far as an almost one pot meal goes, it’s pretty tasty too.

It’s the time of year where we are inundated with quinces and can hardly keep up with making use of them. Cooking them with the barley and pheasant is delicious and a perfect use for them.