There is a very true saying that all good things take time to create and nurture. Well these two recipes will certainly test your patience - and they did test mine! I’m a bit impatient and want everything to have happened yesterday. Well I had to wait two weeks for these pickled eggs to be pickled and the pork scratchings also need 5 days salting before anything else can be done with them.

To create and complete these two recipes required a lot of reading, testing and eating. The fact of the matter is that there’s not much written word about pickled eggs; hence us making up our own, whereas on the other hand pork scratchings had a lot of references. The panel of tasters, developers and testers consist of James who lead the project and did the most of the doing, Tall Dan (he boiled the eggs), Skinny Dan (mainly eating the pickled eggs), Steve, Ross and myself (the three wise ones). Actually I just do the delegating, talking and eating and the rest are doing the deed! Well I’m a girl who knows what I like so they had to do it until we liked it! Simples!

We tried and tested several versions of the scratchings - 8 month’s worth to be honest. However, finally the literary word that won the taste test was the incredibly well-written Pork Scratchings, A Version Of by Fergus Henderson & Justin Piers Gellatly from ‘Beyond Nose To Tail’. We did however put our own twist on this well created recipe as one does, but the principle of the recipe remains the same.

The pickled eggs are kept in a pickle laden with spice so the pork scratchings had to follow suit.

We highly recommend both these recipes and sell the dishes with pride at the British Larder, however it must come with a health warning. “Consume responsibly in small quantities as sensitive teeth might suffer and a slightly tired heart and well-lived body might feel the strain if consumed in large, lavish quantities.” Or if you have a life motto like mine, “eat and enjoy, you only live once!”

I came across this video of  USA baking legend Peter Reinhart and I must say he confirmed my feelings for baking bread. His passion together with his simplistic and humorous manner of explaining how to make the perfect dough, what happens during the “making” process and all things  technical  is just simply perfect!

If you have a  spare 16 minutes watch this video as it definitely clarified any remaining issues as to why I still sometimes bake bricks! Baking bread is the radical transformation of taking wheat or flour and making it into a tasty loaf, it’s a tricky process and the fate of your loaf lies in your hands. The baker makes the ultimate decisions on which flour or ingredients to use but a small fluctuation in temperature and timing  will effect the final outcome of your loaf.

In short you cannot fast track the process and without the true understanding and knowledge it’s a daunting task. Anyone can bake bread but armed with the knowledge and know how, it’s an even more interesting and exciting process.

Peter talks about the 12 stages of bread baking and explains the Bakers Mission of extracting flavour from wheat or flour:

1. Mis-en-place – weighing ingredients and getting everything ready
2. Mixing – developing the gluten to give the dough the strength to grow and activates the yeast
3. Fermentation – developing flavour – this is the stage  where the yeast ‘eats’ the sugars and starts to ferment by creating carbon dioxide and alcohol- in Peters words the yeast “burps” and “sweats”
4. Dividing – the dough into smaller pieces which makes it easier to handle
5. Shaping – Shape the dough into required shapes such as loaves, rolls, sticks etc..
6. Resting
7. Final Shaping
8. Panning – transferring the dough to suitable tins and baking vessel such as baskets, loaf tins or baking trays
9. Final Fermentation also known as proving stage
10. Baking – Three transformations take place: 1. the sugars caramelise and forms a crust; 2. proteins coagulate at 160°C, this forms the crumb of the loaf; 3. gelatinisation takes place when the dough reaches 180°C, all the moisture is absorbed and the yeast bubbles bursts and all the flavours are transferred to the bread
11. Cooling
12. Eating!

Click here to view the embedded video.

A culinary foam consists of natural flavours such as fruit juices or vegetable purees, soup and stock bases mixed with gelling or stabilising agents such as lecithin, gelatine or natural fats in cream and other dairy produce .This is achieved by the introduction of air by using either a mechanical technique of whipping the fluids with either a hand held immersion blender or extruded through a cream whipper using N₂O cartridges.

This technique is not new to us and has been used for many generations such as the making of cappuccinos and the old childhood favourite  for adding a topping to an Ice-cream Sunday. Adrià has taken this 1970′s technique and equipment, refined the philosophy and used the science behind it all to develop the more commonly used culinary foams, airs and espumas that we all know these days.

In the ‘90s, when Ferran Adrià developed this technique it took the culinary world by storm and and it was considered avant-garde at that time. Then foams were used in the white-tablecloth establishments around the world and became totally over used.However who cares if foams are so ‘yesterday’ in the restaurant world? I still love the technique and think it’s definitely one to retain. It shows that the culinary world is turning and we are not all stuck in obeying the classic French school of cooking . I class it as a cookery technique developed and learnt in my cookery era and I’m proud of it and shall celebrate it for as long as I can.

The benefits of this technique is that when you incorporate air mechanically, in a fierce manner, into a very intense and strong flavoured sauce  you expand the flavour so it becomes light and sumptuous and the volume doubles.

As briefly explained before there are two kinds of foams. I  differentiate the two as follows:

1. The one that I refer to as a foam or cappuccino is made with a hand held immersion blender creating a wispy foam,
2. The other foam,  espuma or air ,is created by a cream whipper, also known as a siphon, using N₂O cartridges to incorporate the air which creates a  dense mousse type foam.

Which foam to use  and when is a matter of personal preference. To create the perfect foam or air it is important that you have a understanding of how to achieve this and I have listed a few facts that should set you on your way.

Espuma and Foaming facts:

• The liquid or puree must be thick and or dense enough to hold its shape.
• For the foam to hold its shape for a period of time there must be some form of thickening or gelling agent present in the liquid.
• Thickening and gelling agents are: gelatine, lecithin, agar and natural fats such as butter, cream and other dairy produce
  
• For hot foams the best thickeners are fat or starch; this could be found in butter, cream or milk. It’s also important to make sure that the liquid is not too hot, the perfect temperature is between 5o°C and 65°C. Place the cream whipper in a bain-marie filled with hot water; do not keep for longer than 2 hours.
• Cold foams also require fat to stabilise the shape but if you make dairy free foam you can use gelatine with dense liquid or purees, to stabilise the foam. All depends on what  you are making but I normally use 1 leaf of gelatine to 250ml of dense liquid. If your choice is dairy you can add fat by adding yoghurt, crème fraîche or cream.
• There are two different gasses available to charge the cream whipper . Standard gas bulbs that will give you the foaming characteristics are Nitrous oxide (N₂O) .
• Carbon Dioxide (CO₂) is also available and will give the liquid a fizzy texture commonly found in fizzy drinks. Select your gas carefully to give you the desired end result. If you would like to experiment with making fizzy soda drinks I recommend that you should investigate the Soda Siphons bottles.

British Larder Recipes Creating Foams

• Molasses Roasted Pineapple with Dark Brown Sugar
• Oyster Beignets With a Sorrel Velouté
• Cauliflower Soup with Morbier Air Profiteroles
• Celeriac Espuma with Ras-el-Hanout Steamed Tiger Prawns
• Apple Snowball
• White Hot Chocolate Espuma with The Ultimate Chocolate Brownies
• Clementine Sherbet Verrines
• Tamarind Pears with Creamed Tapioca and Toffee Pear Lollipops
• Mango and Blackcurrant Espuma
• Pink Peppercorn Strawberry Jelly and Thyme Infused Honey Custard
• Chilled Pea Soup With Parmesan Cream and Soft-Boiled Gulls’s Egg
• Restaurant Sat Bains presents a “Sweet Curry”
• Vinegar Air and Salty Crispy Potatoes

Agar agar is a mixture of several different carbohydrates extracted from seaweed where as gelatine is a substance produced from animal protein.

The unusual and complex agar carbohydrates that form agar agar are extracted from gelidium species of Red Sea algae. Agar agar is also known by its Japanese name Kanten. In Indian cuisine agar agar is also known as “China grass” however this could be made from a combination of various other carbohydrates and not seaweed. Please read the ingredients list to ensure that you have purchased the correct product i.e. agar agar made from Red Sea algae.

Agar agar is suitable for vegans, vegetarians and is suitable for most religious diets where as gelatine is not as it’s made from animal protein, mainly pigs.

Agar agar is available in different forms: bars, flaked and powdered, and in the UK you are most likely to find it in the flaked or powdered forms. Natural agar agar is unflavoured, producing a firm clear jelly and is rich in iodine and trace minerals and has a  mildly laxative properties as it’s consists of approximately 80% fibre.

The flakes are produced by a traditional method of cooking and pressing the sea algae and then freeze-drying the residue to form bars which are then flaked for easier packing and transport.

How does it work?

Agar agar has stronger setting properties than gelatine which requires refrigeration to set. A jelly made with agar agar will set at room temperature after about an hour. It is advisable to store agar jellies in the fridge as it is a high protein food.

Agar jellies will collapse if stirred, shaken or disturbed before they have set completely. My advice is to prepare the container for setting the jelly in advance. The container must be oil free and for some bizare reason agar agar does not set  in the liquid form if it comes in contact with clingfilm.Therefore  do not line the moulds with clingfilm and ensure it’s grease free.

Agar forms a gel at a lower concentration than gelatine. In practice you need less agar to set the same volume of liquid than gelatine.

Agar is opaque in colour and once dissolved sets into a jelly, it also has a more crumbly or flaky texture than gelatine jellies.

Just like gelatine the gelling ability of agar agar is affected by the acidity or alkalinity of the ingredients it is mixed with. More acidic foods, such as citrus fruits and strawberries, may require higher amounts of agar agar. Some ingredients will not set with it at all unless the enzymes in those fruits are broken down by cooking. The fruits are kiwi fruit, which are too acidic, pineapple, fresh figs, papaya, mango and peaches, which contain enzymes which break down the gelling ability. Chocolate and spinach also prevent agar agar from setting.

How to use agar agar

Like gelatine you must soak agar in cold water but then unlike gelatine you must boil the agar solution for 5 minutes to activate  and completely dissolve the carbohydrates. Agar sets at around 38-40°C where as gelatine dissolves completely at 35°C. Agar jellies will become liquid again at 80°C – 90°C.

Ratios of Use:

• Use the ratio of 100ml of neutral liquid to 0.9g of powdered agar agar
• Use 1.3g of agar agar to 100ml of acidic liquid solutions
• You will need very accurate specialist scales to weigh agar correctly

Unlike gelatine, agar agar can be boiled and can even be re-melted if necessary. If you are unsure of the setting ability of your gel, test a small amount in a cold bowl  it should set in 20-30 seconds, if not you may need more agar agar, if too firm add some more liquid.

Agar v Gelatine

Agar has a few advantages over gelatine. Many bacteria can digest and destroy gelatine and turn it into a liquid. Agar is more difficult to digest and only a very few bacteria can destroy agar carbohydrates.
The ideal temperature for bacteria growth is at 35 °C  hence gelatine completely dissolves, agar only melts when it reaches 85°C.

So in short gelatine jellies melt in the mouth where as agar jellies do not and will remain chewy.

The benefits are that agar will remain solid on a hot day and can even be served hot which allows cooks to experiment with various textures at various temperatures.

British Larder Recipes Using Agar Agar

• Beetroot Stained Salmon Gravadlax
• Potted Pigs’ Cheeks with Pea Custard
• Wild Asparagus and Opal Basil Risotto with Chilled Green Tomato Jelly
• Roasted Cardamom Panacotta with Stewed Rhubarb
• Flame-Grilled Mackerel with Smoked Eel and Shiso

The sheet size of  UK leaf gelatine changed to half size a few years ago but it still causes confusion especially as the catering industry use another size of gelatine which comes with different grades and strengths. In the UK you can buy a variety of branded gelatine leaves, the two that I’m most familiar with are G.Costa and Super Cook Select Platinum Grade. My understanding is that though the dimensions changed, the strength remained the same, so in short it is exactly the same thing just a different size.

This page should give you enough information to feel confident to use gelatine either at home or commercially.

Please note that the sizes and formats described apply to the UK only and may vary in other countries.

What is Gelatine?

Gelatine is an odourless, colourless and tasteless solid substance made from protein derived from beef and veal bones, tendons and other tissue,whereas much of the commercial gelatine is a by-product of pig skin. It’s commonly used as a gelling or setting agent in cookery, both savoury and sweet. Gelatine is an irreversible hydrolyzed form of collagen and is classified as a foodstuff with an E-number E441. Gelatine is found in lots of every day foods such as marshmallows, jellies and some low-fat yogurts and set desserts. Some dietary or religious customs forbid the use of gelatine from certain animal sources, and medical issues may limit or prevent its consumption by certain people.

Gelatine sets firm when cold and melts completely at 35°C.

The effect of commonly used ingredients on the setting point of gelatine

There are a few everyday  ingredients that can influence the setting point of gelatine.

• Milk and dairy products strengthen the gelling process and support the structure of gelatine,
• Salt lowers the strength and can cause the collapse of the structure or in some cases prevent the setting of the gelatine, all, this could be counteracted by increasing the amount of gelatine used.
• Sugars increase the strength of gelatine with the exception of fructose found in fruits
• Acids such as vinegar, fruit juice and wine with a pH below 4 produces a weaker jelly and requires the amount of gelatine used to be increased by upto 1/3 of the original amount.
• Strong acids and tannins in red wine and tea can make a jelly, set with gelatine, go cloudy. Cloudiness can be prevented by cooking the tannin rich ingredient and gelatine solution together briefly, about a minute or two. The jellies can also benefit from being passed through a muslin cloth or in some cases even being clarified.
• Pineapple, papaya, melon and kiwi fruit all contain protein digesting enzymes that break gelatine down and prevent it from setting. You can deactivate these destructive enzymes by cooking the fruits and turning the fruit into a puree or cook the extracted juices to create a clear jelly.

How To Use Leaf Gelatine

• All leaf gelatines must be soaked properly before using, regardless of the brand, strength  or size.
• You must always soak leaf gelatine in cold water, as anything less than cold may interfere with the blooming stage.
• Place the leaf or leaves in a suitably sized flat container, if you soak more than one sheet make sure you separate them by wiggling them about in the water, if they stick together they will not soak properly and their use will be diminished.
• Pour enough cold water over the gelatine to ensure it’s completely covered.
• Leave to soak until the gelatine blooms(expands) and goes wrinkly, this takes normally about 5 – 6 minutes depending on the quantity. If you soak numerous sheets this will take longer.
• Do not leave the gelatine in the water  too long, it will start to break down and you will not be able to use it in the correct amounts if it starts to disintegrate.
• Once bloomed the gelatine is ready to be used, remove the gelatine from the water, squeeze it between your fingers to remove any excess water.
• Melt the gelatin by adding it to the warm liquid that it is to be added to, the liquid temperature must be over 35°C.
• Once the liquid is cooled below 4°C the gelatine will set and become firm. You can melt the gelatine and re-set it for the second and third time by bringing the liquid back to over 35°C and then set it again at below 4°C

How To Use Bronze Commercial Gelatine

For commercial use I recommend and only use bronze leaf gelatine.

I have devised a simple formula to give you an indication of how much to use. Please remember these are only guide lines and always test small amounts by chilling 100ml of your mixture to check how firm it sets. I normally pop a small about in a flat small bowl and chill it quickly in the freezer, this way I can add a bit more gelatine or let it down if it does not set to my liking.

The formula for Bronze Gelatine Sheets

• 1 sheet of bronze gelatine for 100ml liquid = soft set (easy to turn out)
• 1 sheet of bronze gelatine for 125ml liquid = wobbly soft set (served in a glass)

How To Use Domestic Small Gelatine Leaves – Platinum Grade

The small sheets that you buy from most supermarkets and delis in the UK are made by G.Costa or Super Cook Select Platinum Grade and the strength differs slightly to the bronze commercial larger sheets.

• 1 small platinum sheet for 100ml liquid = soft set (easy to turn out)
• 1 small platinum sheet for 125ml liquid = wobbly set (serve in a glass)

Conversions for powder gelatine to leaves

• 1 level teaspoon of gelatin powder = 1½ small leaves
• 3 level teaspoons of gelatin powder = 3 small leaves
• 6 level teaspoons of gelatin powder = 6 small leaves

Conclusion

I conclude  that there is no difference between commercial bronze and domestic platinum gelatine. I found from  my test  that the bronze product has a “bronze/ yellow” colour where as the platinum was bright and almost colourless. My personal preference is to use leaf gelatine rather than the powdered version. Remember that gelatine is not suitable for vegetarians nor certain religious diets, I recommend using veggie gel or agar agar which are both suitable for vegetarians and vegans.  I will write another separate page covering agar agar as there are some important rules to follow for it’s successful use.

If you would like me to write about any other specialist ingredients please let me know and I will investigate and share my findings.

Myths About Geltine

My mother used to give me gelatine supplements, she believed it would strengthen my hair and nails. Well the truth is that there is no medical or scientific evidence to confirm that gelatine supplements have a direct link to the strengthening of hair and nails. In other words it’s a myth.

What we do know is that nails and hair are made of a protein called keratin and gelatine is not a building block for keratin proteins.

British Larder Recipes Using Gelatine

• Molasses Roasted Pineapple with Dark Brown Sugar
• Coconut Panacotta and Passion Fruit Eggs
• Apple Snowball
• Tamarind Pears with Creamed Tapioca and Toffee Pear Lollipops
• Clementine Sherbet Verrines
• Thyme Poached Apricots
• Buttermilk Pudding with Blood Oranges
• Roasted Cardamom Panacotta with Stewed Rhubarb
• Sticky Orange Cake with Natural Yogurt Topping
• Funky Bircher Muesli
• Vinegar Air and Salty Crispy Potatoes
• Hog Shank and Savoy Cabbage Terrine
• Mango & Blackcurrant Espuma
• Strawberry Crunch and Pomegranate Marshmallows